Tibetan art show

Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen

Gaden Jangtse Dratsan
P.O.Tibetan Colony
Mundgod, N.K. 581411
Karnataka State, India
Tel.: 8301-45748

www.tanc.org
www.studentsforafreetibet.org
www.tibetjustice.org
www.rangzen.net
www.friends-of-tibet.org

The Tibetan people have always fascinated me. The one thing I have always noticed is so many of them have beautiful smiles. Their graceful and gentle ways make me feel like I have much catching up to do in my own personality. I heard about the show at the Asian Art Museum, “Treasures from the roof of the world” and I knew I would have to bring a Tibetan monk some of my friends introduced me to. I wanted to understand the deeper meaning of the statues and ritual objects. One thing, which took me awhile to understand, is that a statue of Buddha to a westerner is just that, a statue. If it was dusty or had cracks it might be considered more “authentic”. These statues are allowed to gather dust or moss if they are in a garden to give it an ancient look. An antiques dealer would tell one not to repair an old statue less it lessens its value. To a practicing Buddhist, a statue of Buddha is a living embodiment of the Buddha. Any dust would be scrupulously cleaned off. Cracks or peeling paint would be repaired regardless of age or an antiques dealer appraisal. I wondered what my Tibetan friend would say when he saw statues under Plexiglas beneath track lighting.
I met Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen at a friend’s house and drove him to the BART station. I watched him fumble with the BART ticket and felt like I was witnessing an ancient culture clash with the modern world. He surprised me moments later when he pulled out a cell phone with more bells and whistles than mine. So much for my point of view.
We approached the Museum and I pulled my camera out only to have a security guard tell me no photos allowed. I asked if it was true for the whole show and he said no just the Tibetan collection. This was my first feeling that something was amiss. I knew then that it would be a struggle to write this story with the photos being so strictly controlled.
The first room had many different pieces from headdresses to wall hangings. Stone carvings, small statues. and robes had small descriptions beneath. Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen didn’t need to look at the descriptions before starting in his gentle way with his soft voice that drew other visitors closer.
He described in detail how Buddhism spread along through the countries near the Himalayas. I noticed the tour guides listening to him. A small crowd shuffled respectfully behind him clearly hungry for the ancient knowledge, which flowed, effortlessly from his tongue. A display of conch shell horns, which predated the founding of America, was on display. The horn sounds offerings to the deities. The shell is one of the eight auspicious symbols of enlightenment. Thighbone horns were cloaked in metalwork with incredible detail. We stood in front of a robe of one of the Dalai Lamas. Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen stood quietly for the first time and looked at it intently. Something told me not to bother him. I wondered what he was feeling but I bit my tongue. He asked me if I could take a picture of it for him. I told him I didn’t want to get kicked out. He said,” Of course” and walked away. I felt awful. I could see how badly he wanted a photo. Here he is a Monk in his fifties who fled Tibet as a child and who knows how many miles he has traveled outside his homeland. Before him is a robe which symbolizes so much for him and his people and all that separates him is a half inch of Plexiglas and museum regulations.
Solid gold butter lamps shone brightly under the track lighting. A bell used in ceremonies caught his eyes. He motioned for me to come over. He pointed to its description. It said it was Ming dynasty. I knew immediately what he meant. Tibet wasn’t part of China in the Ming dynasty. China invaded in 1949. It felt odd to stand in the U.S. and witness Chine propaganda at work. I laughed and a security guard asked me to be quiet. I knew this story had taken on a life of it’s own. I wanted to run home and begin typing.
I asked Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen why the use of bones in so much of the art. He said that they are reminders of the impermanence of life. Skeletons appear everywhere in Tibetan imagery. Yogis would meditate in cemeteries to focus on impermanence. Skull cups were gilded with gold.
Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen began translating words painted on some tablets and people strained to hear. A tour guide began to ask questions. When she was done, a security guard approached and asked which incarnation the current Dalai Lama was. He replied that he was the fourteenth. The guard thanked him and smiled brightly.
Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen commented on the communist’s favorite things to attack was the use of gold. It was said to show the unfairness of the Tibetan practices. Geshe said Buddhists use it because it doesn’t rust and lasts a long time in harsh climates. Also, poor people offer small pieces of gold and when a Buddha statue is cast, every person who contributed can share in its completion. The art itself embodies the community, which forged it.
As we prepared to leave, a painter was working on a Buddhist painting which had an under painting of strictly prescribed geometric structures. His technique was flawless. Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen talked at length with him while we waited respectfully. We said goodbye and the painter rushed over and shook our hand with both of his. It was genuinely compassionate. He had a wonderful smile. I felt for him to be so close to his treasures, which had been taken by an invading army, and he continued to paint images of Buddha with no complaints. I quickly walked back to the robe of the Dalai Lama and snapped a blurry image and left quickly.
Outside a few protestors stood with signs which said,” Warning, stolen art inside” and,” China stole my country”. Geshe Tashi Gyaltsen walked up respectfully and the protestors walked toward him bowing slightly, both hands outstretched. They shook hands for a long time. I waited for them to talk as they had a lot to say. Both of them shook hands with both hands. They radiated goodwill. I gathered up their literature and decided to return with more friends.